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2 days agoI have never seen this one before but I have to disagree.
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Joined 2 years ago
Cake day: July 20th, 2023
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1·11 days agoI think the better answers are already here. It should have had preprinted supports, and the designer may never have thought about actually printing it. 2 halves makes sense.
It’s a shame the raft didn’t work out. If anything, you may still need to print the little gourd separately.
You could flip it over and print it on a raft, but you might get a lot of burrs. Then use tree supports for the gourd-like thing under the neck.
2·26 days agoI’m suggesting either using the secure erase utility built into your efi if available or using hdparm and calling secure erase.
https://grok.lsu.edu/article.aspx?articleid=16716
I suggest calling these utilities with no other drives connected.
True, but it’s not clear to me that both drives are exhibiting the behavior and it sounds more like a copy between two drives. I wouldn’t rule it out and do think it is a possibility, but in my professional experience drives fail much more frequently than controllers.
It makes sense to me to test the drives individually, in another system preferably, using smart long test, which is non-destructive. Next test other drives in this system. If there are errors, try changing out the SATA cables, too. If you can shuffle the data off the drives, do so and then try running them through a secure erase in another system. A bad drive should fail the same way in another system.
My other thought for probably not being the controller is that 4TB is a very long time for a sustained transfer to fail on a flakey component. Also, there are no reports of other errors.
Sounds like a bad drive, TBH. Not as much the platters but the electronics.
If you can move all the data off and do a secure erase on it, it will tell you all lot.
The last board suggested with 5 ports would handle 4 drives in raidz2.
This is smaller even. https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hRBrxr/asrock-motherboard-970mpro3
I would prefer having the smaller board with the hba and putting 8-10 smaller drives in raidz3. That would give you 6 TB with three drives for failure to prevent loss.
Outside the drives, the cost would be under $200 for the board and the hba.
If you have an old system with two PCI-e 16 ports, then your cost is about $90 before you start buying drives.
I’m doing similar with a DDR3 system and spinning 1 TB disks. It’s fast enough to serve video streams.
Ok, so if you want to do a bunch of drives in a box:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FhPzK8/gigabyte-mw50-sv0-atx-lga2011-3-motherboard-mw50-sv0
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/yFWJ7P/crucial-bx500-4-tb-25-solid-state-drive-ct4000bx500ssd1
However, that’s expensive. I would go with spinning disks.
If you want to bring the cost down more,
You can drive the price down more by buying a used system.
The pile of SSDs will be easiest to stuff into a box.
You will need to get creative with cooling.
I found it to just be slow. My only complaint was some weird layer squish, but that was very wrong esteps.
The max is pretty, but the SE is more in my price range.
My use is for making little plastic bits cheaply, and I’m not concerned about time. If my kid wants to upgrade to something better, I will probably “buy” it off him.
I have to agree. My ender 3 has been through hell over the past 5 years, but since I am familiar with it, I can usually dial it in.
If I was just starting out I would be overwhelmed with trying to understand it AND troubleshooting.
If you have an electromechanical background, such as bench repair and/or having repaired lots of truly broken printers, then it is less of a risk imo. I know that refurbish items are usually okay, but there are bad items that make it out of any shop.
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13·2 months agoMany of the users here are attempting to replace Reddit with Lemmy. As we go along, we will create our own culture. I very much hope it doesn’t include panicky screaming in all caps.
My esteps were way off, by about 20%. Also, I was having clogging issues due to my tube not seating properly and causing clogs. I’m impressed that it printed at all.
After addressing the basic issues, I no longer saw any warping.
Also, I’m totally down for a magnetic PEI bed.
Oh, I said this was my son’s printer, but this was mostly something I have used on and off over the past 5 years. I have printed a bunch with it in the past, which is why I eyeballed it and sent the print to tune it on the fly. Generally it is wasteful, but I both considered this as starting from zero and trusted my prior adjustments.
Looking almost functional!
Curling up is a heat issue combined with the change in extrusion and flaky first layer. Glass bed is set to 50, but I prefer it at 60-65 if I recall.
Still seem to have some issues with my feed motor clicking while feeding. I should probably calibrate my steps before I go too much further.
Ok, adding to this I know ten days later: a janky fix that works now becomes a time bomb to troubleshoot later.
Op, I have half a pallet. I could ship you one… From the middle of USA. It’s probably not worth the cost in shipping.
Aren’t German government agencies moving away from Windows? The lack of forced waste might be driving prices up.
The two reasons to run proxmox here are one, to create external snapshots and two, to allow multiple operating systems to share your workstation. I keep a virtual Windows install for random windows os stuff on the same server.
If you are not getting the benefits of virtualization, then it makes sense to run bare metal.
I think you identified the issue, in a way. I don’t blame you for wanting to manually install and configure it for understanding purposes, but I can say that hopping straight in to Fedora it seems (mostly) fine. I have had a few weird lockups, but it is far between. Also, as others have griped, drag and drop sucks right now.