Do not use Onshape for any purpose whatsoever. Anything you produce with it can be trivially stolen by others. I don’t even trust their paid (i.e. extortion) tier to protect your files stored in their cloud from being perused privately by Onshape themselves just in case you may happen to have produced anything commercially viable, and/or shared with the feds.

Just don’t.

…And also breaks instantly as soon as it’s put under load. The process is for sure very interesting, but a simple casting like this is not the correct method for making something like a wrench. It’d be useful for plenty of other parts, though.

Because it made that noise.

External USB ones are free in boxes of Frosted Flakes these days.

I have a genuine honest to goodness 5.25" bay mounted Blu Ray burner in my tower right now. Hey, you never friggin’ know. It comes in handy every once in a while. There’s a machine in my basement with an LS-120, a Zip drive, and a 5.25" floppy drive in it that all still work. Occasionally I still find myself needing to get some monumentally important ancient file off of some kind of floppy disk or other for somebody.

Iran’s leadership is still solely comprised of repressive religious authoritarian buttmunches. There are no good guys in this war, only two bad guys and a bunch of Iranian civilians standing in the crossfire. Remember that their own people were already staging mass protests against the Iranian government before this all started, during which Iran’s own government admits to killing 3,117 people (probably more in reality) while “cracking down.”

Superglue works extremely well on coffee mugs. I have one that’s got the handle held back on with superglue and it’s been that way for probably close to a decade at this point. The stupid 1970s ceramic tile toothbrush holder in my downstairs bathroom is also held together with superglue…

I’m not entirely certain I’d be keen to try putting back together any of the liquid holding parts of a mug with it, but if you did it carefully and very thoroughly it wouldn’t surprise me if that worked as well.

Unless you’ve deliberately reversed your walls/infill printing order, the default is to print walls first. Your print head and nozzle won’t have any reason to leave the perimeter of the model even if you’re printing multiple examples of the part until the entire layer is complete on one of them. It will move to the next part in the array only after finishing the infill, which is well after your problem may have occurred on either the inner or outer perimeters on any particular layer.

I’m not sure what you’re on about with top fill. I didn’t say anything about your fill pattern or percentage.

Your nozzle won’t travel anywhere outside of your model’s outer perimeter because it has no reason to (unless your g-code is super borked, see my comment about your slicer above) but it will be dancing around within the space between the outer perimeter and center of your model many hundreds of times. Any extrusions pulled off on the outer perimeter would stay somewhere within the model.

Those sections of extrusion are being pulled away from the print as the nozzle moves, because for whatever reason they are not adhering to the rest of the print properly.

Increase print temperature, reduce print speed, or reduce travel move speeds.

Also a sanity check, look at your slicer’s output preview and ensure nothing about that model is causing it to freak out and attempt to print in midair…

Do you drive around with no license plate on your car, too?

That only lists 18 states…

My own state requires it despite that list implying they don’t. Thus I really don’t think that chart is completely accurate. If you have ANY warning lights on your dash at inspection you will be failed here.

By “aren’t hard to remove” you actually mean requires dismounting the tire from the rim, remounting it, and then balacing it. This is far beyond the capabilities not to mention equipment of the typical layperson. Plus, your state is likely to conveniently fail your car on its next inspection for a nonfunctioning TPMS system, same as your check engine light.

If you’re going to go the distance anyway, get your tire shop to mount aftermarket Autel sensors in your rims. Using the readily available diagnostic tool, you can occasionally reprogram those (wirelessly!) with a set of random IDs and then also program your car to use them. You’ll be a lot tougher to track if your signature is different every week.

I’m not about to do this just yet, but I do have the tool for more mundane purposes and I only paid around $200 for it several years ago.

I have no idea. There was some dweeb on this very instance going around spamming a Krita related thread complaining about it.

I imagine it’s related to how some neckbards on the internet are apparently extremely salty that Krita currently has a “furry” as a mascot, created by Tyson Tan.

Random aside to rant about consumer OCR.

Recently for my work I had to do some OCR stuff to get some numbers out of a document that the vendor in their infinite wisdom refused to provide in an editable/selectable form. I.e. they just slapped a .jpeg onto a page and saved it as a .pdf. (This is a separate thing that infuriates me.)

Anyway, what I’m actually here to complain about is the baffling phenomenon that every single piece of OCR software I tried ranging from open source to trials of commercial programs, to the thingy that came with one of our all-in-one printer/scanners, and everything in between is that it’s somehow still exactly as crap as the lousy OCR programs we were all struggling with in the late '90s.

I have absolutely no idea how this facet of technology in particular has utterly and categorically failed to make any forward progress whatsoever in literal decades. I’ve personally worked on machine vision driven pick-and-place machines capable of accurately determining the orientation of densely printed cosmetics tubes, among other items, and placing them all face up in a box several times per second. Yet somehow the latest and greatest OCR transcription algorithms still can’t tell a 5 from a 6 or ye gods forbid an S, or an L from a J, or an M from a collection of back and forward slashes, all despite being handed crisp high contrast seriffed text that’s at least 60 pixels high.

Given the incredibly low bar for performance here given that apparently every single programmer involved just walked away circa about 2001, I can’t imagine that the current slop generation machines fare any better…

You don’t have to read the release notes. It literally puts it front and center in your face the first time you launch it after this update is applied.

I approve of this message.

What you described as impossible to find is how basically every security DVR system has worked for decades. I have two Lorex branded boxes at work and a Night Owl one at home, and neither of them require anyone’s “cloud.”

They’re remotely accessible via your browser or a smartphone app although, yes, you do need to know your public facing IP address and poke the appropriate hole in your firewall for it.

Every X seconds is pretty generous. My Subaru only seems to poll the sensors every few minutes, and only when the wheel speed is above 35 MPH or so, at least via what I’ve observed with my diagnostic tool. The sensors are battery powered and I suspect the low refresh rate is a deliberate gambit to conserve battery life.

You are correct on the ID point, though. They can contain up to 16 hexidecimal digits as far as I’ve seen, and while there doesn’t seem to be any mechanism for truly enforcing uniqueness the chances of an ID collision are so low that you may as well consider it impossible. Some aftermarket sensors can be wirelessly reprogrammed with an arbitrary ID, though, which may be of marginal utility for the truly paranoid. (My diagnostic tool can do this, too. The intended use case is cloning the ID from an OEM sensor for a car whose TPMS relearn procedure is more trouble than it’s worth.)

Regardless of your vehicle’s polling frequency, most sensors can be woken up any time by a specific radio pulse, which my diagnostic tool can also do, and the range is surprisingly long. Just my car’s own BMS where the receiver is (above the rear left wheel well) can pick up the sensors in my snow tire rims even when said rims are sitting in their storage rack inside my garage, about three car lengths away.

Some of them certainly are. You can also get air rifles with built in “moderators” (i.e. suppressors) that are surprisingly quiet. Precharged pneumatic air rifles can be very powerful and also extremely accurate. I have a relatively cheap Hatsan that can, provided I’m using pellets that it likes, repeatably put pellets through the same hole in my target from as far away as I can get from it in my yard (probably about 20 yards) and do so about 30 times in succession before I have to pump it back up again. Its built in moderator makes it quiet enough at the muzzle that the sound of the hammer hitting the gas valve is actually louder than the report from firing.

Watch out: Researching this type of thing may send you tumbling down the rabbit hole of big bore air rifles and entice you to spend a lot of money. Don’t say I didn’t warn you…