There were versions of the Cub bigger than 50cc. Even the current Grom derived 125cc one has a centrifugal clutch.

I don’t hate it because it’s new, I hate it because the Rekluse clutch accomplishes the same thing and does not fill me with an sense of existential dread and trepidation about haywire electronics. A Rekluse is also too dumb to be fooled in the manner Ari demonstrated in the video.

If you want a little Honda with no clutch, just get a Super Cub.

🐿️

Yes, I was waiting for someone to notice that.

From TFA:

Manufacturers may comply through three methods specified in Section 6(2) of the bill: integration of the algorithm in the printer’s firmware, integration in preprint software, or a handshake authentication design between software and printer.

Nobody’s going to do this in the printer itself; the spyware will be built into the slicer.

Ultimately this will be trivially easy to defeat no matter what moronic legislators who possess no technical knowledge think. The real dangers are more subtle, not least of which being the chilling effect if this passes effectively instructing all 3D printer manufacturers not to sell anything in Washington state since total compliance as the bill proposes is indeed effectively impossible, and the penalties for presumed lack of compliance are high. The most realistic outcome for a private individual vis-a-vis potentially printing a ghost gun is not necessarily having their printer tattle on them, but the state having yet another byzantine felony they can charge people with if they get caught after the fact with whatever-it-is they have. Never mind the 1st and 2nd amendments, the only realistic avenue for enforcement of this on private individuals will run afoul of the 4th.

I employed the super secure expedient of never exporting my keys. I have no idea what they are, I never did, and I never will.

There’s really no irreplaceable data on my Windows machine. If I have to reformat it some day A) that’s no big deal, and B) it’s Windows, what else is new.

I’m in agreement with the others. This is a printer issue, not a model design issue. Any current printer in good working order and running non-insane settings should be able to print a 90 degree inside corner like that with no problem.

Some possibilities:

Your Z offset may be set too high, so that your first layer height is too tall. This will result in the first layer’s extrusions not sticking to the bed and each other, peeling off in strings like you see here.

Flip this over and show us the bottom of it. The effects of a too-high first layer should be readily apparent. That’s where my money is.

Your printer may also be attempting to round the corners too fast. You could slow down your print speed, or adjust your linear advance settings. If you are using Prusaslicer or a derivative thereof (Orca, Qidi, etc.) there are built-in calibration prints you can run that will provide you a range of values to inspect my physically printing them, and allowing you to choose from the value that produces the best looking result. Ideally your linear advance/pressure advance setting should be tuned for each spool of filament, but in reality most people (myself included) don’t bother until they observe an issue. I use the same settings for all PLA, and a different set of settings for all PETG, and another for ABS, etc.

Using Rufus still works. I did it as recently as a couple of days ago.

If you sign in with a Microsoft account at all I don’t believe there’s the capability to opt out.

I only use local accounts. I have never had a Microsoft account. I never will.

They don’t have a copy of every single Bitlocker key. They do have a copy of your Bitlocker key if you are dumb enough to allow it to sync with your Microsoft account, you know, “for convenience.”

Don’t use a Microsoft account with Windows, even if you are forced to use Windows.

Isn’t GIMP explicitly a GTK app?

Hey, I like my 3D TV. Every once in a while I manage to find a pirated video that’s in 3D and it’s pretty neat. And unlike the current avalanche of generative/LLM bullshit, I can turn the 3D off, and when I do it works just fine as a perfectly ordinary TV, and in no way does it nag me incessantly to turn it back on.

?

In the Enterprise editions of Windows, you can already uninstall it. Maybe not via group policy, but you can just find it in the Apps > Installed Apps list and right click to uninstall it. On the various home user editions of Windows, this is probably not the case. (I have zero systems running those, so I can’t check.)

The Enterprise LTSC IoT version of Windows 10 doesn’t even come with Copilot, nor have any updates for it thus far installed it on any of the systems I administer, either. Apparently only 11 does.

What’s new here is apparently being able to trigger this via group policy, but for anyone in the here and now you can already disable Copilot via group policy as well, even on your local system, even on Windows 11.

Fortunately (?) my PSU let the smoke out about three years after I bought the initial one for that build which had IIRC a pair of 7950GTs in it from my previous machine, in SLI. So I had the opportunity to throw a modern-ish Corsair 850w power supply in it which has all the modular plugs I need. That box has had a succession of random graphics cards in it ranging from that old pair of 7950GTs, then a GTX680, then finally my current GTX1080Ti. Honestly, the 1080 is still plenty enough for most games in 1080p (possibly serendipitously) as long as you don’t feel the pathological need for raytracing or frame generation.

You can sidestep the NVMe issue as long as you don’t care about 100% speed by slapping a PCIe to NVMe adapter board in one of your handy unused x16 slots now that you’re no longer using SLI (if that reminds you of anyone you know). I’m not certain booting off of that is viable and I haven’t bothered to try to figure it out, so the boot drive in that machine is a SATA SSD currently.

On the bright side, that board has ten SATA ports so turning into a drive farm is a trivial prospect if you’re into that kind of thing.

It says in the article.

The reason given is rising raw materials costs, i.e. metals, and the price increases they’re talking about are on the order of around 10% which is obviously a slap in the face along with everything else that’s going on in the hardware world, but by the same token pretty minimal compared to said selfsame everything else.

I think I paid $40 for my CPU cooler. So, if I ever need to buy a another one for some reason and now it’s $44, well, I guess I’ll live.

Hell, I have a Sandy Bridge based machine I built in 2012. It’s getting there, 14 years old now, and with its 1080ti in there it can still play most games just fine. It’s not my primary rig anymore but it’s still trucking the same as it ever was.

Mainstream PC performance really hit its plateau by, when, like 2018? I imagine somebody with a machine that’s only 8 years old will probably do just fine unless some critical and irreplaceable component in it explodes.

Make sure the edge of your bed isn’t resting on something it ought not to be and/or doesn’t have any crap stuck to the underside of it. My Qidi has two plastic tabs sticking up at the rear which are supposed to be end stops to assist you in lining up the magnetic plate back onto its base, but if you’re not careful you can wind up with the back edge of the base siting on top of them which has the net effect of making the build surface the equivalent of about a 1:64 scale skateboard quarter pipe. This has predictable results if you try to print anything on the back third of it or so.

This reminds me in a roundabout way that I still need to order tires for the KLR. Spring needs to hurry up already.

Yes.

But this is also because your system administrators are incompetent.

There are myriad other ways to accomplish the same thing, but this is easily rolled out via Group Policy.

These also have an entire computer running Tizen behind the screen in the door, which generates waste heat and dumps it… into your refrigerator. Genius!