Here you go

Better yet, Windows IoT enterprise LTSC. Debloated Windows with LTSC

Dry and then store in sealed container with silica gel. Silica will maintain dryness, but will not dry filament by itself.

Also, containers must have a seal of some kind. Regular plastic tubs will let some moisture in. For a few days or a couple of weeks that’ll be fine, but over a month they’ll let moisture in. Get vacuum bags.

There are pretty cheap reusable vacuum bags that use a little pump. I use a cheap kitchen vacuum machine, and regular food storage vacuum bags.

I live in a dry climate. Trust me, dry your PETG.

Get Rapid PETG. Regular PETG. I’ve printed a few rolls of regular PETG, and it can be a source of frustration. Same with PLA. Get a PLA +.

I live in a dry climate, and thought drying PETG was unnecessary. After a lot of frustration, I made a (very good) redneck dryer, and my printing life became much better. PETG really likes water, and printing humid PETG is a source of major frustration.

Also, don’t dry filaments in ovens, microwaves, or other food use things. A lot of idiots on YouTube recommend that, and it’s obvious that you don’t want to cook foods in ovens that have been coated in unknown VOCs.

Time to order a few SanDisk cards

I’m thinking torque rather than speed. I have converted an Ender 5 Plus to Hybrid core Y, with the Endorphin mod and I’m mulling adding an extra stepper on the X, and increasing power on the Y, either with a larger Y dual shaft or adding an extra stepper on the Y in series.

I really like elegoo rpetg. It really likes moisture, though. Not a problem for me with my redneck dryer, though.

I’ll be making a video with my setup soon.

I had a bunch of rolls of plain petg, and dumped them on a second hand market. Never looking back.

Also, Sunlu PLA+ 2.0. Great PLA.

I want to try Polymaker HT-PLA-GF. High temp resistance (150°C) right off the printer, more if annealed, and glass fiber. Should be a great replacement for many engineering filaments, but printable on vanilla printers without enclosure/filters.

Epoxy can be a bit of a crap shoot with plastics. It works wonderfully for some, a not at all for others. I have worked a lot with epoxy and plastics are always a “try somewhere else in the part” thing. Also, if there is grease on the part" forget it. Even with epoxy especially formulated for plastics.

If all you want is to use the epoxy as a filler, it may work.

I have searched aliexpress, and there are kits for around 17€. I don’t know what the shipping and customs are where you live.

I use Xpenology on an HP Gen 8 microswrver, a pretty nifty piece of kit. Works great, but setting up and upgrading versions can be a rather involved process.

Gamer desktops tend to be power hogs. Running them 24/7 can rack up some hefty power bills, plus noise, plus space, plus other tradeoffs.

Better a used thin client.

If you have a 3d printer, or access, o know someone willing to print for you, there are many free models out there

Definitely an option, but for the price of a Pi with all the extras, case, power supply, etc, you can get a used thin client that is way more capable.

There is a guy on YouTube that often reviews these things, and discovers some models that are surprisingly capable.

Synology publishes a list of certified non-synology drives, and warns you that drives outside the list are not recommended, but, at least in non enterprise models, allows them to be used. I believe there is some rather easy way (some config file change or the like) to circumvent the limitation, but yeah, dick move.

Bargaining chip. Hehe, I see what you did there.

Tesla sells itself as a technology innovation company, but it sells hype.

Is that compatible with other brands? I believe most MMUs are only compatible with their own printers. That’s another advantage of INDX, and other toolchangers I’m sure are in the pipeline. I’m going to be installing an INDX in my heavily modded Ender 5 Plus, and if I ever decide to sell it, or retire it, I know I’ll probably be able to carry it over to another printer.

Oh, I understand that perfectly well. The question is: that thing is a tethered balloon. If they expect to have it float 10 Km up, it has to be tethered with a cable at least 10Km long, which should be able to withstand the forces created by wind resistance, plus its own weight, and be conductive, so some lightweight cable won’t cut it, metal will have to be involved, and not some lightweight signal cable, but hefty metal. Will that thing be buoyant enough to lift that cable?

Is that thing going to be able to float itself and support the weight of the cables at the altitudes they talk about?