

The real key is buried in the middle, where they say hardware decode capabilities are going to be restricted to models with discrete GPUs… Meaning they can make a $500 upsell mandatory for the most basic of capabilities.
A Reddit Refugee. Zero ragrets.
Engineer, permanent pirate, lover of all things mechanical and on wheels
moved here from lemmy.one because there are no active admins on that instance.


The real key is buried in the middle, where they say hardware decode capabilities are going to be restricted to models with discrete GPUs… Meaning they can make a $500 upsell mandatory for the most basic of capabilities.
Oh thank god. This solves my problem of no good integrated cam hardware on the market that isn’t cloudified or a huge security hole.


That was part of it for sure, but even on the machines we reserved specifically for experienced users and were personally maintained by myself just had myriad issues. Every first layer had to be watched like a hawk. And they were bedslingers so knocking over prints was a semi common occurence too.


That means the peak is here. The insider of all insiders sold? Dump everything!


I do, and it’s one of the reasons I bought a Bambu (pre-lockdown shit of course). Despite not having many hours, the prusa mk3’s my college had in their makerspace were CONSTANTLY having issues and were a lot harder to get successful prints off of. I got an x1c when i got real money after graduating and it’s given me 1200 hours of zero maintenance except grease and a couple belt tension resets.


Then you’re using the wrong browser


I did that too. Still nothing appears. There us a donation box in place of those advertisements.


There are no ads on my computer or my phone when running no adblocker.
Your network or multiple devices have been hijacked, someone is injecting ads. Some ISP’s even do this themselves to double dip profits. Run an adblocker and VPN and run virus scans.


me when i am in a “build an unusuable standard” competition and my opponent is “literally any consumer electronics manufacturer”


Ethernet over HDMI does exist as a standard, but iirc it requires the device manufacturer on both ends of the cable to have a special implementation, and also requires a special cable that has the Ethernet data lanes included. I’m not sure any modern displays implement it anymore, it kinda died because it sucked and wasn’t that useful.


I dont really blame Proton for this. Accessing anything on the internet on a clear connection and not through a VPN or TOR makes it your own damn fault when you get identified.


Ah i don’t even care about it being loud, I got a garage my printer lives in when I’m doing ASA and ABS anyway. Sounds good thanks!


Good to know. Yeah I already cal my printer for XYZ scaling semi regularly when I’m doing really critical stuff and anything I’m doing over 200mm I already plan for tolerances and match-drilling holes out. Sounds like I’m moving this to my Christmas wishlist.


How do you like your 08Max? I’ve been looking into getting a large format printer for automotive parts and it’s one of the most cost effective ones I can find on the market. Would like to know how it does for accuracy, eg how much fiddling do you need to get parts within a mm tolerance. And not sure on sovol’s firmware and parts availability.
I’d have to add my own enclosure heater but I’m already building a design to add that to my x1c so that’s not a big issue.


Well seeing as the brim is pretty smooth and properly filled I’m guessing it’s not a machine bed leveling thing.
Wondering if your print preset is messed up. Go to the Quality tab with advanced settings in orca, and near the bottom there should be “bottom surface flow ratio” as well as “elephants foot compensation” (i think, going completely from memory here) You may need to turn up the flow ratio and/or down the foot comp to get the bottom layer squeezed together properly, the defaults with the sv08 profile might not be right for your particular plate.


Is it underextrusion/too high gaps or overextrusion mountains pushed up by the nozzle? It’s hard to tell if there is actual space between the plastic lines. Is this leading to print fails or bad first layer quality when the part is removed?
A tactic I’ve noticed in Orcaslicer, when using Bambu presets on my x1c, is to slightly overextrude the first layer. This forces the plastic solidly into a textured bed surface ensuring you get maximum hold. This leaves the first layer looking kinda shitty on top but fully filled in underneath. And it doesn’t do this for the brim either.
I’d run it for the prototype, just for funsies, until a shop can make the real part or the plastic breaks. It might last longer than you think.


And at significantly lower transmit power too. Ubiquiti 5ac ptp rigs use like 8w, 802.11ah can make a link with under a watt. Sure it won’t be fast at all but if you’re doing a remote embedded device on a solar panel, it makes a huge difference.


Yet 42 million people need food stamps to not starve to death
AV1