Socket lamp USB adapter

All of these other solutions aren’t going to get you what you want 🤦

Search for “socket lamp USB power adapter” or something similar. You’ll find what you need, and cheaply.

This is absolutely insane. It’s so top heavy there is no way this will do anything but spectacularly fail, and take the entire economy with it.

It’s not really stable enough to be used for daily driving. That, and the driver support is whacky at best, so you’d need a very specific stack of hardware to even get it running. The OS in general is made to be binary compatible with Windows, but that doesn’t guarantee drivers actually work and can install due to a number of other factors.

Do you have a Zigbee bridge? Philips Hue things do work without the Hue App, but you probably have to add a manually entry for the device, and you need a Zigbee Bridge. Also, if I remember correctly, almost every device that isn’t a Hue bulb still shows up as a bulb for some reason. This is more due to the limitations of the Hue ecosystem than the HA implementation.

If you just want a smart plug without all the corporate BS, get one that works on Matter (Zigbee or Z-Wave if you have an endpoint), and check the integration before buying. Moe’s is pretty solid, but there’s a ton of open devices out there that “just work” on HA.

Intel was one of the funding corporations for that initial APM codec work, so that’s not shocking at all.

Honestly, that’s how the codec game works. Most people or software don’t adopt until after the successor is in place. It’s more about the software side lagging to adopt though. Nvidia just got AV1 into their hardware processing pipeline in the last 2 years. I think AMD is even more recent than that.

Lol, classic deflection of someone who insecure in their knowledge about a subject and trying to change the subject. Personal attacks. Weak sauce, guy. Have a time with yourself.

Two words then: Flipper Zero

You’re behind the times on this one. This is a common tool used to defeat all kinds of locks. The Z-Wave exploits have been around for a LOOOONG time now. There’s also BT and RFID exploits as well, hence the CVE is posted above.

You’re missing the point here…🤦

You mentioned Yale Smart Locks, and that CVE is specific to Yale Smart Locks. Has nothing to do with Z-Wave, but if your lock has a contact reader, it’s susceptible.

Sure: https://www.securityweek.com/100-million-iot-devices-possibly-exposed-z-wave-attack/

Also a 2 year old CVE yet to be addressed: https://cvefeed.io/vuln/detail/CVE-2023-26943

These locks were exploited many years ago, and I don’t believe they are considered to be safe.

So necessary.

Well XWayland will for work fine with that driver version, but it’s 13 years old at this point. They’ve dropped support in the Nvidia drivers for anything that old, and any kernel upgrades do not guarantee that old 470 driver will continue to work.

May just be time to move on if this the major concern.

It will default to the Nouveau driver which will be fine for daily driving, just not gaming.

F-Droid on the come up then.

So?

It certainly looks like this device is either: a) not maintaining a stable broadcast in low power mode, b) missing some standard BLE information that is expected to be broadcast, or c) your machine has duplicate UUIDs for this device.

It’s hard to discern without being at the machine, so as a jumping off point, I would look at the devices your machine thinks it’s already paired with: bluetoothctl devices

Copy and paste that list, and note the device IDs. Wait for this event to happen again, then check the bluetoothctl command again and see if the same mouse has registered with different IDs. If so, either the mouse is broadcast different device info all the time (weird), or you have a collision in the registered devices that isn’t being overwritten on pairing (also weird).

SO…I’d say a good starting point after this is to just nuke all the registered BT devices:bluetoothctl remove {deviceID}

See if that kicks things back into working. Have you tried new batteries by chance? Some of these BLE devices act super wonky if they don’t have perfect voltages. Sometimes Alkaline Batteries are needed instead of Lithium rechargeables even. Sounds dumb, but check the manuals to see if it’s mentioned.

Run sudo btmon after it happens and post the output