Complementary guide

I have 3 printers and first was the OG ender 3 pro with only couple of mods (mainboard and cooling duct/fan), while it is slower and needs more manual calibration, I get same print quality than bambulab A1. It is actually even better on overhang parts

I am mainly reading on iPad due to screen ratio, I’m self hosting yacreader library and use yacreader app (server is free, app is one time payment on iPad, does have an android/windows client but not developed as iOS version). If I remember correctly, I think there is also Panel on ipad that do the same (would need to check). On android, I need to check and can answer tomorrow (almost 1am here), could be cdisplayex but unsure.

i don’t know any on computer but some app offer that on android/ios. i guess they look for some kind of contrast pattern to determine each frame.

Did try and it does work really well on some but not all garphics novel / comics

Does it have access to boot menu? If so, change boot order so it goes to usb first. You will then only need to create a bootable usb stick with Linux on it

Since it just a remix, can’t you put original 3mf/stl file and add your version to the download section? If that’s work, just add to 3d model file title “by xxx” To give credit to original designer so they are no confusion between your files and the original designer.

The most popular way (and might also be the best) is to use z2m instead of deconz

https://www.tridimake.com/2016/05/3d-printing-cooling-with-air-pump-aquarium.html?m=1

Cooling duct are used to precisely cool down plastic right after it was lay down without cooling down build plate (to avoid warping issue), this enable you to print bigger overhang without the need of support which end up in greater details.

Unless you have knowledge to create CFD trace, I would avoid it, they were/are tons of poor designs like ring duct which are very ineffective/unprecise. You don’t need really high pressure but blower fan are better than radial fan for almost all designs is why you see them the most (they are also more than pressure which are to take into account but don’t recall).

As of reducing print bed, it doesn’t, But if you wish to full the plate with parts and use the “print one object at a time” setting, it will reduce the number of object you can put on a plate, otherwise it will knock down parts.

As an exemple, my first printer which was the OG ender 3 with petsfang duct get better overhangs than my bambulab A1 with stock duct.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8qnCQ7YZhVA

I’m using home assistant, with mqtt which acts for many things and I get notification in different way depending the needs. Could be home assistant app or telegram or lighting up some light or sending voice messages to a speaker. All notifications are triggered by automations looking at states. Haven’t done it but automation could be re launched automatically until (for exemple) I press a button or responding to telegram message

https://hackaday.com/2024/11/20/with-core-one-prusas-open-source-hardware-dream-quietly-dies/#more-734822

(I’m not English native)

One of the latest Prusa printer is closed source If I remember correctly Core xy

You are not completely wrong, they have one printer with closed sources.

This is mainly because consumer 3d printer have been developped by 3d printing enthusiast first and not a company, Prusa which was leader for some time used a lot of open sources project to build their printers. As it’s getting mainstream as time goes by more and more companies shows up with closed sources project sadly.

It is mostly targeting french content (RD is a french company), so most user may have not see a big change. For french, RD has become muche less attractive because RD has banned biggest french torrent site and 1fichier files are scanned, if file matches hash content from movies/series it will blocked download.

And if that’s doesn’t work, message me and we will try to solve this out

Have you tried a Factory reset?

Not the answer you are waiting but there is something wrong with your shield, I have a 2015 and 2019 Shield and both are just very good even if the first one has nearly 10 years