I have not had problems with glass or PEI. Your other comments indicate you tried ABS. That will never work without an enclosure, and even then, it will not work particularly well on any Cartesian machine. Sorry that illustrative examples and abstractive reasoning are offensive to you.
It can coat the inside of the drier. Use Bounty paper towels as a control when in question. Bounty are often used in automotive paint shops for a few reasons, but they are trustworthy for composition. If the two plies are separated, they make a good strain filter. That is the primary reason they are used. They also tend to be lower lint though not perfect. A tack cloth is used in the booth with controlled filtered air flow either across or down draft, so it is not a concern for perfect paint.
One of the tricks of automotive painting is to add a couple of drops of Palmolive dish soap to the water bucket used with wet sanding. It makes 3M Imperial Wet/Dry sandpaper last several times longer and acts as a mild degreaser the whole time. Any residue is cleaned in the booth stage using a special Wax and Grease Remover solvent that is the least reactive of the painting solvents. While this solvent is used extensively, still the fact that Palmolive dish soap can be used at all indicates how it is clean, consistent, and chemically irrelevant. Automotive paint reacts with many chemicals but specifically silicon is the worst problem. It causes fisheyes aka little divot like holes to form in the clearcoat. In most situations involving contamination and adhesion, silicon is the main issue that will be very persistent. It is so bad in automotive paint that in the worst cases, we turn to adding an actual silicon solution into the 2k clearcoat and trying to guess what concentration will match the problem area to level it. Otherwise, the entire job must be stripped to the raw surface and start over. Silicon issues only show up in the final wet clearcoat layer shortly after it is sprayed and leveled.
The reason why I have written all of this is to illustrate this point: the silicon is essentially floating on every underlying layer. The solvent has wet the area and the silicon just floats to the top of some filler, 2k primer, sealer, top coat color and when it gets to the clearcoat it blows a hole through it. There are two solutions. Use a two part epoxy primer that is a pain in the ass to sand, or clean the the raw surface with lacquer thinner or virgin acetone. In automotive paint, those two solvents are dangerous for causing a ton of other contamination and reactions issues. However, these are the only solvents that will take off silicon without diluting it and making the problem worse. Alcohol is a joke with no place in the automotive paint world when I was painting. I got out before water based stuff ruined the industry by making refinishing exponentially more expensive. That is only the color coat and some primers, so there may be alcohol used in some way in these, but it will not involve cleaning. Tire shine is the main source of silicon issues in automotive paint.
I have the empirical experience to know what I am looking at with cleaning and solvents. Alcohol is okay for minor issues, but think of it as constantly diluting and wiping the problem across the whole surface. Eventually, just use some virgin acetone to actually clean the thing properly. Paint is just plastic too. Each type requires a different type of tooth to mechanically bond to. With printing, I use 600 grit to lightly knock the shine off of the print plate surface. I go lighter on the textured sheet, but I only use the textured sheet with PETG because it is the only one that takes the textured pattern completely without showing layer lines. I print weekly on average, and use acetone and sandpaper around once a year. When I use glue stick, I clean the plate with dish soap after. I use alcohol in between. You will need an enclosure for ASA, ABS, and any larger PC prints regardless of the sheet or glue. Two IKEA Lack tables with legs stacked using double sided screws, then a clear shower curtain liner, and some tack nails does the job for under $50.
I would never use towels from any drier that has ever had fabric softener used in it for automotive paint. That is a contamination nightmare for me.
PLA will be better for hardware store and hobby junk. You cannot use automotive class finishes and expect them to last. Generally stick to one brand. Most paints are formulated for steel. ABS is the closest to steel in thermal properties. The expansion is the most important attribute. PLA has a different thermal profile so catalysed 2-part paints will not work very well long term. Rattle can enamel is junk by comparison, but it never fully cures like automotive paints. That property helps it stay in place longer in general. There are special adhesion promoters like bulldog for automotive stuff, but the thermal properties will still be an issue.
Pro automotive paint is 99.9% sanding and prep work. It is far more intense and rigorous than people realize. Perfection happens in the prep work. The actual paint is just a way of showing off that perfection. Mastering automotive paint is actually all about defeating yourself. Perfection is not subject to your emotions or expectations. It is right when it is perfect.
You want the highest pressure spray cans as possible. Also, if you do not used all of the can at once, flip it upside down and clear the nozzle by letting the siphon into the empty void and spraying. If you have a compressor that does not shoot out a bunch of oil or water, a cheap Harbor Freight pink gun with the nozzle of the can beside the spray gun will work wonders by atomizing the spray far more effectively.
You are solely responsible for vetting the software that you choose to run.
I do not review or care about the tools a person uses to create their projects. I appreciate the disclaimer when the person discloses their aptitude and confidence in their code.
Free software and Unix culture is a culture of hackers. Stallman’s very degree is in AI. Emacs is mostly a thing because lisp was adapted early on for AI development many decades ago.
Junk code is nothing new. X11 is notoriously bad, yet you likely have parts of it running on your hardware. Proprietary code is far far worse than anything a hacker posts as open source, yet you are running proprietary blobs on whatever device you are looking at now. Even if you are like myself with a libreboot machine, Leah readily admits that you need to run the core duo microcode if you want it to run right, and are not using that hardware for your primary device. The culture of antiAI is dogmatic nonsense. It is a tool, not a religion. It can be used harmfully or helpfully. I can’t fix stupid in anyone except myself. I do not fault anyone for what they run, the projects they share, or the background they come from. I encourage everyone to be positive and help their fellow hackers. I value participation and enthusiasm. Dogma and negativity are toxic.
I am ultra liberal. You have a right to all information, a right to skepticism, a right to error, and a right to protest in non violent forms aka the right to offend others. You do not have a right to infringe the rights of others.
This anti AI populism infringes the rights to all information and right to error if any administrative actions are taken. Your right to protest and skepticism is duly noted. If these become toxic in any ways that alter the dissemination of information, or toxic/harmful to the individual sharing information, I will remove the offending comments. If the person continues, I will escalate. I am only the janitor here. I clean up the messes. I do not matter, but neither does anyone else here. It is a community, and only the community matters. Garbage software is bog standard. Crusade against things that matter like proprietary software leveraged hardware theft and SaaS.
Thanks for sharing.
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So the trick to sanding longer with abrasives is wet sanding. In addition, in automotive work, a drop of Palmolive dish soap is added to a bucket of water. This addition makes a huge difference.
Overall, the principal of like polishes like is important. In abstract, polish is just fine abrasion. Like your finger prints are around 5k-7k grit equivalent. Rub something long enough and you will both polish and abrade it the same as this grit. The oils in your skin are the polishing agent.
I have played around with 10k grit wet sanding and then machine polishing with a light compound where places I rested my hand showed minor variations after stripping any oils and fillers with wax and grease remover (solvent).
I can think of several aspects to increase the complexity here. One could add inserts into the outer vibrating shell. These could be any materials.
I think the bigger issue will actually be the distance between the object and the shell. You see, the size of the random orbital action is the product of two concentric circles. In the pro automotive world, these are pneumatically driven. There are several models available with different properties related to this motion and the internal balance of the mechanism. Within this range of actuation, it is critical that abrasion does not follow a path of repetition. I think this likely means the shell must be larger than the radius of the largest of these two circles or maybe a more complicated size larger than the combination of overlapping radii including their central connection point. This should enable the part to move within the range of random sanding action. That range means the sanding is over a larger area.
The best shell is likely one with gaps similar to a DA sander with ports for dust collection.
Very little of any fiber touches the actual nozzle during printing. The actual fiber size used in filament is far far smaller than what most people imagine. It is only the waste dust from the production and processing of carbon fiber. All actual fibers of any useful length are sold in industry for use in composites. There are continuous fiber printers, but that is not at all related to what is used in 3d printing. If you actually look at the data from people testing materials, fiber infused materials are always weaker. They print better because they are breaking up the polymer bonds. Lots of people jump on the buzzword thinking it is technomagic mor betterer but do not pay attention to the details. If the fiber had any length to it, it would clog like crazy because a long bunch of fibers distributed in 1.75mm crammed into 0.4mm is never going to happen. It is just like a dust additive that happens to be available and is compatible. So it should be well distributed throughout. With ABS a wipe of acetone should help too, if left to completely flash off the solvent for a week or more. That needs to be super limited though. Acetone tends to get retained in bad bad ways with ABS. It is a massive no no to use in automotive applications.
Not in terms of kernel supported encodings and long term kernel support, from what I have seen. I have not looked into this in depth. However, looking at git repo merged pulls, issues raised, and the lack of any consistent hardware commitments or consensus, implies to me that the hardware is very unstable in the long term. When I see any hardware with mostly only base Debian support, it screams that the hardware is on an orphaned kernel and will likely never get to mainline. The same applies to Arch to a lesser degree. Debian has the primary tool chain for bootstrapping and hardware hacking. When it is the primary option supported, I consider the hardware insecure and unsafe to connect to the internet. I’ve seen a few instances where people are talking about the limited forms of encoding support and the incomplete nature of those that do exist. It is far more important to have hardware that will be supported with mainline kernel security updates and is compatible with the majority of encodings. It would be terrible to find out the thing could not support common audio or video codecs. IIRC there was an issue along these lines with the RISC-V PineTab.
I know the primary goto for RISC-V is SiFive, but I have not seen a goto LTS processor from them in terms of third party consistent use.
Plus, while more open is mor betterer, RISC-V is not full proof from a proprietary blob either. The ISA addresses the monopolistic tyranny and extortion of players like Intel, but there is nothing preventing the inclusion of 3rd party proprietary module blocks. The entire point is to create an open market for the sale and inclusion of IP blocks that are compatible with an open standard. Nothing about these blocks is required to be open. I don’t know if such a thing could be set to a negative ring more privileged than the kernel, but I expect this to be the case.
Most people’s routers are already up 24/7.
We should be able to do our own DNS. Who cares if it is on the wider clearweb. You are paying for an IP address with your internet connection. If you are running a server with verified hardware and signed code, all we need is a half dozen nodes mirroring our own DNS. There must be a backup proxy for the few terrible providers that cause issues with IP. The addresses are not static, but they do not change very often. At worse, you hit a manual button to reset or wait 10 minutes before the DNS updates.
Rπ is proprietary. You really need a hard drive for storage. The point is a TPM based encryption with no user configuration or worry about securing the thing. It just works with no excuses.
It is not about the people that already host. It is about enabling many more by giving them an option to buy a path of least resistance. In exchange, it creates a potential revenue source in a completely untapped demographic. The subscription/donations demographic is like a very unique and niche market. The vast majority of people do not exist within that space. Most people do not have the financial stability to engage like this. It is not that they are unable to accumulate adequate funds, it is that their pay fluctuates over time and their baseline constraints are far more stressful than spending from times of surplus and opportunity. Catering only to those with such surplus and gatekeeping the complexity of self hosting is massively limiting adoption.
The rule in managing a chain of retail stores is that, no matter how you select products to stock in stores, it is impossible to only select products that will all sell on one platform. How you manage the overburden always determines your long term success. You must employ other platforms and demographics to prioritize the mobility of cash flow.
Similarly but inverted, this place has a slice of all demographics. Efforts tailored to the various subsets should tap entirely new potential. A fool imagines they can convert the unstable poor*'r* into a reliable stable income source via donations. Someone like myself has means but not a situation that is compatible. If I have some tangible thing to purchase, I can make that happen. I do not have any subscriptions in life for anything at all. Heck, I won’t even shop on any of my devices I use regularly because I only buy what I intend to go looking to purchase with intent. That is not common, but what is common are spontaneous people that need time to align their finances with their desires. That person is likely to dread paying $5 every month compared to $250 in May when they get a couple thousand dollars on a tax return. Expecting the public to float the stability is stupid. That is not how the real world works. Real businesses always float the overhead. I’m talking about how to free the masses to self host everything for the cost of a nice router spent once with no techno leet filter.
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Because 99.9% of people will never self host. They would much rather just buy a product that is not setup as a scam. The scam part is less important to most people than the lack of effort required.
This isn’t a thing to get into for the money. It would be about the FOSS aspect. Doing something like this would not break even for the time and labor involved. It might be worth doing for positive digital neighbors, but I am not at all interested in doing anything for negative or rude people.
I come from a background of being a buyer for a chain of bike shops where I spent millions of dollars based upon knowledge of how such markets work. The entry level customer is all that really matters. The extra stuff is just to woo them into the store.
In a place like this, if you engage, you’re actually irrelevant. If you want to target growth, get a lurker to engage for the first time. Getting some random lurkers to buy into the hardware to self host because they care about software freedom is far far more effective than the current ecosystem. When servers are not updated, and people shut down because of administration, it says this is not viable for the average person with a life. So make this easy for the individual. It is such an obvious thing to do.
The present system is basically like go compile OpenWRT for your router and people whining about how it is not fucking hard. It is not, but most people just do nor care to try it. They just want to buy a device, plug it in, and be done. Half of these devices are on factory original passwords. This is the real scope of what people are capable of and expect. The mismatch is easily solved by packing the fediverse as a device. The alternates are great for the 0.1%. I am not talking about you all. I am talking about something that could go from 0.1% to 5% of the fediverse is self hosted, and likely much larger. The whole endeavor would be like a coop socialist kind of thing from the ground up.
I would be impressed if the servos are enough to power it. Skimming through a dozen pages of posts it was just the most interesting thing I spotted to try and post some content in a dead feed lull.
Yeah, fuck that. Devs need to change that bullshit yesterday. I sign all my mod actions with my name because this fascist fuckwit nonsense is garbage. If you can’t post your name to your actions, you are a coward with no right to lead.
I think it was ask hilarious chaos and news, but I couldn’t even figure out what instance it was on.
On YT, CHEP is probably one of the best references for basic Ender setup and use.
You are unlikely to have the issue overall, but there is a nonzero chance of having issues with any aluminum extrusions based linear motion system. It is only a serious problem for a single digits percentage of people and the problem is worse on larger printers.
When aluminum extrusions are manufactured, the tolerances of faces are really good. However the one factor that is poorly constrained is twist. The amount is imperceptible without a metrology setup to measure the deviation. In the unlikely chance that you have triple checked every part of your setup, and you are still having issues, keep in mind this is a thing that exists. Try swapping symmetrical components where possible to see if the problem follows the swapped extrusion. This is one of those issues that is nearly impossible to find on your own unless you know to look for it.
If you need any help, don’t hesitate to reach out directly, or post. I’ll help you any way I can. Happy printing!
It is just a cleanliness standard. It is not required. I spent a decade in the details of automotive paint. I only covered the surface basics for paint. What I call clean for paint is an order of magnitude more dirty than a surgeon, and they are orders of magnitude more dirty than a silicon chip foundry. When it comes to making plastic stick and look pretty, an automotive painter might be helpful for framing the scope of what is possible. All I can tell you is I have a Prusa and never have these problems, so I explained my experience and methodology as to why I do as I said. Again, sorry this upsets you.