Sounds normal to me. The circle shape causes two steppers to oscilate between fast and slow in a sine pattern, and those two stepper speeds are phase shifted compared to each other, making it sound odd.

If you printed an elipse insteaf you’d get a different song.

The sound itself is expected, but it sounds like there might be some resonance at play, increasing the volume, but I wouldn’t worry about it.

Dvorak phone when? Preferably with compose key in place of caps lock, but it’s not vital.

And for fucks sake, give us an ISO option. I’m not claiming one is superior over the other, but most of the world have used ISO their entire lives and absolutely detest ANSI.

Is it data you would trust in the hands of random strangers on the internet? If so, I can easily store 50TB for you, as long as it’s temporary.

Oh, and I have various storage solutions in various jurisdictions, so if you have any preferences as to places you do NOT want to store it, that’s something you need to hilight.

Some PETG residue after scraping off a notoriously resistant brim a while back. It doesn’t affect the print, but it’s fugly enough that I rarely use that side of the sheet. Note that the lighting causes it to look worse than it actually is.

I happened to be watching the print camera when a nut suddenly dropped onto the print sheet. Luckily it’s just a short test print, so it gets to complete the current job.

If I’m not mistaken, it’s one of the nuts holding the X rail in place. Time to do some tightening I guess.

UPDATE: It was actually from the top vent cover. These nuts are intentionally left somewhat loose for the vent to open/shut easily. Not critical, but I need to get some locktite on there.

I was in the same boat, so I’ll leave you with this golden nugget you probably want to check out:

certbot

He’s trying to cover it up because of you foot fetishist freaks on the internet

By the way, I recommend going for the kit and not the preassembled one. Learning how everything fits together helps on the maintenance, plus the assembly instructions are really well written. Also, the kit is a little cheaper.

Took me three evenings to assemble everything.

What’s the budget? There are many good ones in many price categories, so if you have a figure in mind, that helps narrow it down.

Personally I’m a big fan of my Prusa Core One. It’s fun to build and it hasn’t left me wanting, plus there are many upgrade options available. It’s also pretty open in terms of software, as opposed to certain other manufacturers which seem to be going for a walled garden approach.

Woot:

“I cannot imagine having gone through figuring out how to raise a newborn without ChatGPT.”
– Sam Altman.

Fucking dweeb…

I’m exclusively on linux, and I’m using PrusaSlicer. It does what I need, and it integrates well with my prusa printer.

I did sniff around, in the name of science, looking at other slicers to see what they offered, but I found no reason to try anything else for now.

Two bananas for accuracy, so that the viewer knows the size of the first banana

I think so. While it may seem daunting and very complex at first, getting the basics down in blender will get you pretty far. FreeCAD is another popular choice. They’re two very different ways of modeling, so I recommend trying out a tutorial for each and see which style works for you.

Yeah, looks like that exact segment shifted a little while printing. A typical culprit when it comes to localized adhesion issue is finger prints.

The only step you’re missing is basically what I described above. I recommend grabbing PrusaSlicer, load your STL, and play around with it, as it shows after slicing the various print instructions it comes up with. For starting out, the defaults should work fine.

An STL file describes an object/shape. This needs to be translated into actual print instructions such as move to X/Y position, squirt plastic, move again, etc. This is what a slicer does: It “translates” from a shape to actual print instructions. I’m not sure, but I’ve always assumed that it’s called slicing because it takes the 3D object and creates many vertical slices with print instructions.

I don’t know about your printer specifically, but I guess it takes Gcode (which is what you get as output from a slicer) like most other printers? I suggest you grab PrusaSlicer as it’s very flexible and supports a lot of different printer defaults. Load your STL in there, slice it, transfer the result to your printer, and you should in theory be good to go.

Tip: Start with something small.

Yup. And the official training books are still a great resource for learning everything from the basics to more advanced stuff.

I bought an updated set a couple of years ago, and they still hold up.

I accidentally stumbled across Ctrl+r over a decade ago and I still don’t understand properly how it works. So I usually egrep -e someInsaneRegex ~/.bash_history

Word of the day: Tuning knobs. Or machine head when referring to the entire assembly, worm gear and all.

Ah, so it’s not just me being unable to find a relevant setting, then.

I figured there ought to be a setting for support and brim, as there’s a similar setting for the skirt.