I’ve been tuning my Creality K1 ever since getting it (at a steal of $237.15!) about 3 months ago, and I finally got to a point where I’m getting really good, consistent quality results.

Upgrades include:

Strangely enough, the calibration I did that seemed to make the most difference is the one I kept reading was the least necessary to do. I performed an E-step calibration, and ended up changing the rotation_distance from the default 6.9 to 6.86964. Seems nearly identical, but the next print after making that change was the cleanest I’ve seen yet on my printer.

By the way, the print above was run at 600mm/s, with Overture Turbo PLA!

edit: actually no, volumetric speed limited to 25, so not 600mm/s (still fast though!)

I’m now going through and fine-tuning temp, flow, and pressure advance for each of my filaments, and this is just such a different experience than that of my franken-Ender 3; however, I’m still incredibly grateful for all the knowledge and experience I got from constantly tuning that printer for about 3 years straight.

Perfect first layers, every time

  • spitfire@lemmy.worldEnglish
    1·
    9 days ago

    Can you point me at more info on how to do it on K1, and how does it help? From my end I’d like to recommend the glass bed mod for K1 (put in between the stock bed and magnetic sheet). The bed level is really great. ~0.1mm difference across the bed, no weird bends, no need to preheat (heat soaking?) in advance before leveling

    • tensor_nightly69@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
      4·
      9 days ago

      Heh - I currently have everything set up for the glass bed mod, except I just read that it doesn’t work with the CR touch sensor, so I’ll need to get a BT Eddy sensor or sonar something. I’ll also need to print a new gantry, and I’ve already tried one that didn’t work as well as the stock one, so just waiting to do more research on that, and then I’ll have my glass bed all set up!

      Edit: oh yeah! So the way I calibrated it was:

      • I removed the extruder from the gantry (3 screws)
      • I fed in some filament (cold, obv) until I could see it on the bottom of the extruder
      • Flush cut the filament
      • Issue some commands to extrude 100mm
      • Flush cut that segment off again (try to cut exactly the same as before)
      • Use digital calipers to measure that piece
      • then just calculate your new value and run the test again to see if it extrudes exactly 100mm
      • enjoy amazing prints
      • spitfire@lemmy.worldEnglish
        2·
        8 days ago

        I have it working with a BTT Microprobe (which is very similar to CR-touch). It does not work with the PRTouch which comes with the printer (and is inferior anyway). Eddy is probably much better than either of those. I have the gantry mode printed and pre-assembled but decided not to go with it. Maybe someday if something breaks and I’ll have to tear printer apart anyway. When you’re saying extruder you mean the hotend?